As I browse through my grandfather's writings....yes, my grandfather, was
a columnist, too...I discover his interest in food and philosophy of
cooking. In a collection of his columns, "Fifty Years Ago - Rural Life
From 1875," I came across many interesting references to the food grown
and prepared in the 1870s,
He had firm thoughts of the merits of the food in the latter part of the
1800s versus that which folks were eating in the 1920s when he wrote
these articles.
"I think the foods of 50 years ago were more nourishing and better
adapted to the needs of the body than what we eat today," Grandpa Burton
announced.
According to his philosophy, "It is just as irrational to eat summer
vegetables in winter weather as it is to wear a straw hat. Cold weather
calls for heat producing foods. (He lived in a northern climate with
snowy winters.)"
He further recommended, "Don't fill up on lettuce and spinach and green
peas and beans in January. Better to eat pancakes and sausage. And when
summer comes, cut out the heating foods and live out of the garden."
Corn a Staple
Farmers in those days raised corn for their animals and also for their
family's use. "When the corn was sufficiently dry, we used to shell off a
bushel or two and take it to the local mill to be ground into meal,"
Grandpa Burton explained.
He added that some would be fine and some coarse. The cooks used the fine
for pudding and the coarse for samp. The family ate both with milk.
"This was a great dish, " Grandpa Burton continued, "and often made up a
large part of the farmer's menu."
Rye Bread a Favorite
Grandpa Burton also had some thoughts on the merits of rye bread versus
wheat bread and the "lost art" of breadmaking.
"A boy raised on rye bread was thought to be stronger and healthier," he
said. Grandpa Burton felt "there was no doubt that it had superior
qualities." Because it was ground at the local mill, it didn't lose the
nourishing parts of the grain, he maintained.
"Rye breadmaking was a fine art," according to Burton. The best way to
make rye bread was from a sponge set with wheat flour over night, then
mixed and molded with genuine rye the next morning.
When made this way, "It became an article fit for a king - the bread that
mother used to make."
Now when I see pictures of his mother, my great grandmother Mary, I
visualize her making this rye bread. In later years, in that same
kitchen, his daughter (my aunt) taught me to make my first bread.
Recipes from Grandpa Burton's Era
EGGS WITH TOAST - (Often used as a supper dish.) Toast slices of bread
light brown. Poach eggs nicely and place on a piece of toast. Pour melted
butter over each before serving.
CABBAGE PUDDING - Boil a head of cabbage with some bacon, salt pork, or
ham bone for flavoring. When cooked, chop fine and add 1 large lump of
butter, 3 beaten eggs, 1 teacup hot milk (about 3/4 cup by today's
measuring cups), 2 teaspoons mustard, salt and pepper to taste.
Pour this into a buttered baking dish; dot with butter and sprinkle over
it crushed cracker or bread crumbs. Bake at 350 degrees F. until light
brown on top.
Article (C) 2004 Mary Emma Allen
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